Yesterday I was in Ishkashim, at the entrance of the Wakham valley, for the Afghan Saturday market. One a week the border opens and people from both sides gather together to shop, sell, and eat shashlik with palov. I was happy to witness that event and specially meet some Afghans in their own country.

First of all I was really amazed to see that people were that friendly and happy! Maybe it was because of the market day, but it was still fantastic to say ‘assalamu aleikum’ with the right hand on your heart to everyone, and everyone answering you with a beaming smile in the same fashion, and sometimes even tanking you for saying ‘hello’!

Then I bought an Afghan hat and two turbans, just so I can say that I have a hat and a scarf bought in Afghanistan. I think this country would have amazing to travel to if not at war.

So now I’m back in Khorog, on Sunday, when everything is closed, hoping to get a flight tomorrow to Dushanbe, the capital. I went today to the airport but apparently there is bad weather so the plane is not coming from Dushanbe. Tomorrow inch’ Allah they said. Else I’ll have to take a Chinese minivan for 24 hours or more depending on Allah’s mood once again. I love transportation in Tajikistan!